Bow wing and anchor gear

The plans call for an 75 to 80mm fiberglass or carbon tube for the bow wing. Instead of buying such a tube, I made the tubes myself the easy way, with a foam core (rounded 5 layers of 15mm Corecell)

Already at an earlier stage, I decided to refrain of the designed anchor locker in the bow. The bow is the worst place to stow a lot of weight, and no locker gives much more interior space. Besides of that, I’m tired of bringing the anchor home by elbow steam so I decided to mount an electric windlass and the combination with the designed anchor locker is not a logical one. It is best to bring the weight of the windlass, chain and rope as far aft as possible. Just in front of the forward sub beam bulkhead is ample space to create a large chain locker and the same space gives also the opportunity to bring the windlass below deck. The consequence is a chain pipe through the deck between bow wing and windlass locker.

An investigation into windlasses taught me that the vertical type is the most suitable for my application . This is because of the space available in the windlass locker and the improved 180 degrees grip on the gypsy with respect to a 90 degree grip on the gypsy of a horizontal winch. An unforeseen problem occurred when I discovered that most vertical windlasses turn clockwise when hauling the anchor. Because the winch will be mounted on the starboard side means that the chaintube comes too far to the outside of the bow wing and the chain must go downwards along the wall of the chain locker. That’s not a good setup and I would rather saw a winch that turns counterclockwise at hauling of the anchor. Now all winches can turn both sides, but it is the chainpipe that is fixed on the port side of all vertical windlasses . Only the brand Quick offers a left and right version, but unfortunately only for the larger types (Regal, Dave, Duke). However, the smaller Rider model comes without a chain pipe and an email to the Italian manufacturer confirmed me that I can make a DIY solution for the chainpipe on the starboard side of the windlass.

So I purchased the Quick Rider R3 1000W 24V with 8mm/14mm chain/rope gypsy.

Next question is which anchor to use. I’m familiar with CQR, Bruce, Danforth, FOB and Fortress anchors but the new generation anchors appears to be superior to these traditional models. The various tests prove that Spade and Rocna are the best performers and with regards to their seizing guides I need an anchor with a fluke surface of about 1400 sq.cm, which is a Spade S140 or Rocna 25. A nice feature of Spade is that their 140 model is also available in an aluminum lightweight version.

With their 1:1 patterns I made a wooden mock-up of both versions to determine the possibilities for stowing the anchor on the bow wing. The length of both anchors are about the same but the height of the Rocna 25 is much less than the height of the Spade 140. Last but not least, the Rocna is considerable cheaper than the Spade and the lightweight Spade is far beyond my budget.

So I purchased the Rocna 25. More pictures are on my website.

By the way, the knowledge base of Rocna is worth reading.

 

Advertisements

10 Responses to Bow wing and anchor gear

  1. My eyes kept returning to the picture of the open tube where the ancor chain goes through. Will it stay open in rough sea conditions while the chain is inside the tube?

    • Fram says:

      We will see if it is necessary to close off the tube in heavy weather. Water inside is not a problem since the locker is self draining and above the waterline.

  2. nelson says:

    I like your placement of the windlass and chain. I also would beleive that your chain locker is self draining. In my experience the chain can come off the bottom very muddy at times and a power washer will clean it as it comes aboard. Will you have access to the windlass when in operation if the chain jams on the gypsy?

    • Fram says:

      Hi Nelson, yes the chain locker is self draining. No acces from outside, just a small hole to operate the clutch. If something jams, it has to be cleared from inside. But I hope to make it as smooth as possible, so nothing jams. (hopefully)

  3. Aernoudt Bottemanne says:

    Dat Spade anker (140S) ziet er inderdaad goed uit; alleen waar koop je die? Zag enkel in Nieuw-Zeeland een webshop die ‘m aanbood, en dan alleen de gegalvaniseerde, niet de aluminium.

    Groetjes, Aernoudt

    Op 2 juni 2014, schreef Fram’s Blog : > > Fram posted: ” The plans call for an 75 to 80mm fiberglass or carbon tube. Instead of buying such a tube, I made the tubes myself the easy way, with a foam core (rounded 5 layers of 15mm Corecell) Already at an earlier stage, I decided to refrain of the d” >

  4. John Borchert says:

    Hi Fram,
    How did you make the 75×75 square foam into round tube shape?

  5. ebbtheboat says:

    Excellent choices with siting, arrangements and the choice of anchor. Very nice work Henny! Good to be following your work again.

    regards, Thomas

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: